Monday, April 27, 2009

Mountain Climbing Low Blood Pressure

Flowers Bucharest





Crina a child she had a dream: to meet Ceausescu. She saw him every night on TV. The poems he wrote. He was happy to be a 'pioneer', a small member of the Communist Party. A day came when the long awaited: the 'Father of the Nation' would have opened the Palace of Children and elementary schools Bucharest should all give him flowers before the new building. Crina was excited, with open eyes dreamed of offering him and his bunch in exchange for receiving a kiss.

"order in our uniforms, they took us to the Palace of the Child at 6 am. We were not allowed to keep anything in my pocket, even tissues. They even searched the pants and mouth. It was cold, we were standing and we could not go to the bathroom. He arrived at 2 and we just said goodbye, waving his hand from the car window. Then, escorted by his bodyguards, entered the back door and delivered a speech from the balcony. Did not take the flowers. Che rabbia, che delusione. L'ho odiato. Quando son tornata a casa, ho chiamato disperata mia madre e le ho detto in lacrime che Ceauşescu era un idiota. Le conversazioni telefoniche a quel tempo erano spiate e mia madre, che lo sapeva bene, ha iniziato a dirmi allarmata: «hai la febbre alta, stai delirando, vai a letto!» e ha riattaccato. Ha lasciato il lavoro, mi ha raggiunto a casa e mi ha spiegato ─ i miei genitori non parlavano mai di politica davanti a me perché anche ai bambini veniva chiesto di far da delatori ─ che Ceauşescu era un dittatore. Però ha anche aggiunto che era lui al potere e che avremmo dovuto accettare e convivere col regime”. Era il 1985.

Crina The name comes from 'hair', lily. In Romania it is very common to have the name of a flower, so that the Sunday before Easter is their party, 'Floril', a sort of collective whose feast day is called as a flower. It's a gift.

In Bucharest still smell the flowers. In these days of spring warm, sunny, almost already muggy, that alternate with other cold and rainy, the scent of blossoming trees fills some streets of the capital. Remember honey.

It's incredible how many there are flower shops in Bucharest, and on public transport see almost every day qualcuno con un mazzo di fiori in mano. Ad ogni angolo una bancarella o la bottega di un fioraio, al mercato i banchi di fiori non si contano. E all'uscita della metro bambini e anziane signore dai capelli raccolti in un fazzoletto, ed è da loro che di solito li compro, che vendono dei mazzi semplici e graziosi.

Per strada trovi sprattutto rose, narcisi, margherite e garofani. Nei giardini pubblici, sui prati ben curati, tanti tulipani, che qui hanno un nome simpatico, 'lalele'.

Spesso mi chiedo come mai a Bucarest i fiori conservino intatto quel profumo che in Italia sembrano aver smarrito. Mi hanno spiegato che potrebbe dipendere dal fatto che gli ambulanti improvvisati, donne e bambini, vendono fiori coltivati in giardini privati o su pezzetti di terra alle porte della capitale. Ma io preferisco pensare all'immagine esotica della Romania porta d'oriente d'Europa, luogo di frontiera, terra vergine e dalle mille potenzialità inesplorate, dove i fiori profumano ancora.

Monday, April 20, 2009

How To Wash Veronica Boots

Ri-national sentiments and "revolution anthropogenic" Romanian


Il processo di costruzione dello stato nazione, qui in Romania non è mai terminato. Iniziato, come in tanti altri luoghi d'Europa, alla metà del XIX secolo, esaltando i caratteri di un popolo che si sente discendente degli antichi Romani, still speaks to the minds and hearts of people who are struggling to find a collective and intimate perspective from which to watch the world securely.

what happened. That of the Roman ia is a story of conquest, smembrame nts, disguised dictatorships and colonization. Just to keep the recent past, part of Romania, Bessarabia, the current Republic of Moldova was divided just before the Second World War by the Ribbentrop - Molotov, and ended at the end of the war, directly under Soviet control. The Romania had no luck so different, ending in the infamous Moscow Communist influence.

In early April, during the demonstrations of support given to students in Chisinau, I was impressed to notice quite westernized and secularized young, make a display of nationalist sentiments that, Veneda Italy, are not absolutely used to and that I believe (perhaps foolishly) silly.

Two are the coordinates that can help untangle this in the Carpathian mountains. Both intersect in the bitter communist past. The first is the still ongoing construction of a national sentiment, never finished, and symbolized by the national poet Mihail Eminescu. Not surprisingly, one of the most disastrous policies of Ceausescu è stata appunto un desiderio di ripagare il debito estero del Paese, a costo di enormi sacrifici e interminabile scarsità di generi alimentari e di altri beni di consumo per la popolazione civile, per dimostrare la grandezza e la forza della nazione. Nazionalismo e autarchia. E forse questa modernizzazione incompiuta spiega anche il lento e faticoso districarsi del Paese nella transizione al mercato che, come mi dicono alcuni amici rumeni, dura ormai da vent'anni.

La seconda coordinata, legata alla prima come due piatti di una vecchia bilancia che oscillano lontani, è un sentimento di inferiorità verso le culture occidentali. La capitale è piena di copie di momumenti esteri e nel secolo scorso, nel period between the wars, was nicknamed "Little Paris." The biggest business here in Romania are managed by foreign companies, which find fertile ground that the premises can not but enhance. More than in the other former Warsaw Pact countries, here in Romania the advent of the communist regime meant the attempt of a systematic cancellation of the past. All'altzza plan that I think of the Communist Party of China and Pol Pot, the dictator sangunario cambodian. In Bucharest, whole neighborhoods of precious architecture 'belle epoque' have been razed to make way for its expanses of block and the monstrous building that now houses the parliament, which would have been the residence of Ceausescu and his wife Elena. A classic cultural suicide of a culture that struggles to be done on an angle to secure a cognitive map that reserving a place at par along with other European and world culture.

The 'progress' as a weed, this tree is on solid ground by the roots just great to prosper. If in the 80s at the urban landscape was marred by the Communist-gray buildings, today the romance of some views is disturbed by the proliferation of shopping centers and urban planning from the few rules and easy money.

Every day, like a refrain, the baker or pastry shops, and buy some good rustic sweet and salty else shocked dall'incarto strictly poor quality plastic that breaks the first slight tug. The "anthropological revolution" of the encounter between modernity and tradition with the ashes of communism, served with a gypsy spirit that lingers for Romania, has the sad profile cocalari and pitzipoanca that are derogatory terms with which Bucharest and well educated young men and women define the periphery styled so ridiculous glorification of masculinity, violence, ill-concealed, beauty store, vulgar display of outlines and stasus symbol. The sound of this generation of young people are those sad manele , a byproduct of the gypsy musical tradition where necessary adapted to commercial tastes clubbers.

Colonialism and the loss of national sovereignty today to face the Romanians 'democratic' EU. There are many who see it hasty and unsubstantiated the process of integration into the Community. Process according to detractors that he would once again led to the selling off of the beauties and products (especially the food) national. The road to a resolution of the dilemma of re-Romanian national feelings still seems long.